Setting Your Truck Up To Run Efficiently

One of the biggest things that will constantly take up your time is not knowing things are. Your truck needs to be set up to run and run efficiently. You need a system and you need to stick to it.

If you're constantly searching for things, digging through a bag, digging through pockets...you're wasting precious time while on the road. 

Before you start your day or night, the best thing you can do is put out what you need so it's readily available. 

By my driver door I have my hammer, gloves and a dummy glad hand. I keep glad hand seals in a zip lock bag in the top pocket of my lunchbox. My chain tools are in the side pocket of my lunch box. My chain gloves are in another side pocket. The chain gloves I have are just neoprene ice fishing gloves and they make handling wet chains so much easier and they keep your hands dry and warm.

I have a binder with all my permits and the dates are highlighted on all pages. Makes it easy for DOT to check them and makes it easy for me to scan and see what needs to be updated and when.

I have a pretty good sized rolling go bag that I keep my winter jacket, snowpants and other items of use like stabilicers for my boots, wet wipes to wipe my dash down, armorall wipes to detail the dash with, glass cleaner and microfiber towels and other items.

One of the most time consuming things is dealing with snow chains. I used to just toss the bags on my catwalk of my tractor and bungee them down. But once I saw a YouTube video on how to properly hang them, I saw the error of my ways. Follow these two videos to properly hang your chains. It will save you so much time. When you chain down, spend a few minutes and re-hang them properly. Don't just throw them on the floor of your tractor to get into a tangled knot (especially if you have a slip-seat driver you share a truck with).

 

 

Keeping your truck clean as you go through the week will save you time too. I typically do three things consistently inside my truck. Clean the windows, scrub the floor with simple green and a brush then dry it with paper towels and wipe my dash down with clorox wipes and then wipe again with armor all wipes. You can do these while on your break, while waiting for paperwork from dispatch or waiting on a trailer to come in or for your meet driver to arrive, or if the highway is closed and you're stuck sitting in an accident or construction. 10-15 mins for each, and spread them over several days, ensures you keep a nice clean truck all of the time. I also use those scented trees to keep the inside smelling nice. At the end of the week, I give it a quick vacuum with my handheld ryobi vacuum cleaner, scrub any spots on the floor that need it, I hit the outside glass and mirrors and I'm headed home. I come into a nice, clean truck and ready to roll on Monday. 

All too often I hear drivers grumble, they don't pay me for that! Or who has time for that? You do, if you manage it right and you're not a complete pig. My company pays me good money to drive this tractor for them. The least I can do is take care of their equipment in return. I'm grateful to have a job and I'm grateful to make the money I do. It's also considerate to the driver you slip-seat with if you share a tractor with another driver. Pay it forward! Help the next driver out and be a good steward of that which you have been entrusted with. It's not always all about you!

The How To Guide to Driving Nights.

I recently saw a post on one of the Facebook LTL Groups about driving nights and that spurned my topic for tonight's post.

When I was in training I struggled really hard with driving nights. My trainer liked to drive from 10 am to 9 pm and then make me takeover. It was team style training/driving and it sucked. About 3-4 am, I was like a zombie. Sometimes I couldn't make it through my shift and had to pull over and nap for several hours. I was usually good until about 2 am, after that all bets were off. 

Fast forward a year and when I was at FedEx Ground, I constantly had to wait on my meet driver. So I would go in the sleeper and make it slightly stuffy back there, burrow under the covers and start various breathing exercises I read about on google and slowed my pulse rate down and closed my eyes. The next thing I knew, I was easily able to fall asleep on demand within 2-3 minutes. 

9 years later I have mastered the 12 minute power nap. On a rare occasion, I need an extra 10 minutes, but that's not too often. I try to avoid that as 30 minutes makes me groggy. If you nap 30 minutes or more, you run the risk of getting into deep REM sleep, which you do not want to do. That's where grogginess and fatigue really begin to take their toll on a night driver. 

If you're tired, your head is bobbing, your eyes are heavy...PLEASE, find a rest area, find a truck stop, a turnout or an off ramp and grab a nap. There is NO LOAD worth your life, worth falling asleep behind the wheel and killing yourself, an innocent family or other motorists. Do not ever let any dispatcher, manager or meet driver push you that hard. At the same time, it is your responsibility to make sure you get adequate sleep before your shift. With that said, let's dive into things you can do to sleep during the day, get a nap in when you need it and stay safe while driving nights. 

 
Sleeping During the Day

This was probably the toughest thing for me to get down. I would go to bed and I'd toss and turn, the slightest ray of light and I was wide awake. Our Circadian Rhythm has us programmed to wake up at light. It's our bodies natural alarm clock. It's tough to fight it, it's tought to change our sleep cycle to accomodate the working world. Many nights I went out on the road with 2-4 hours of sleep. The 10.5 hour drive to and from the meet points were brutal. I got home and house work went to the way side and I went to bed too early. Repeat the cycle all week. Then wreck your schedule on the weekend and repeat the previous week all over again this week. UGH. UGH. UGH. This is very dangerous. It results in a sleep deficit. Once you're behind, you don't break even until the weekend and you get enough sleep. So how do you sleep during the day?  Even with the methods I'm going to share with you, there's still a learning curve but it gets better quickly with this knowledge.

Sleep Mask

The first thing, you need a DARK room. But how do you filter out all that light coming from around the door jamb, under the door and in the windows? You don't. Blackout curtains help, but they don't eliminate all light. Neither does stuffing a towel under the door. Foil on the windows expands and crinkles and pinholes still develop. The best way is the Mzoo sleep mask. It is soft, 3D contoured and can be adjusted to fit comfortably and block out ALL LIGHT from hitting your eyes. You can get one on ebay for $15 - $20. 

 

Meds/Sleep Aids

Secondly, I use melatonin. Now, be careful here. Too much melatonin can make you groggy all day. I started out with a 10 mg tablet and wooooooo! I drove from Denver to Wamsutter and back to Laramie before I snapped out of it. That was a brutal day. Lesson learned. I bought a pill splitter from Walgreens and bought a bottle of 3 mg tablets of melatonin. I split all the tablets in half. I took a half (1.5 mg) about 30 minutes before bed time. I was out like a light and slept beautifully. I didn't need to increase my dosage or make other adjustments. If 1.5 mg doesn't work, gradually increase. You can even cut the halves in half and increase that way. Find what works for you, slowly. I also take a pair of Advil PM tablets too. The melatonin puts me to sleep, the Advil PM helps me sleep the entire duration. 

Some doctors may try to prescribe Ambien...not a good idea. It can actually make you fall asleep while you're driving at night. It's a super powerful sleep aid.

 

Hearing/Noise Cancellation

Fortunately, I live alone and have no kids, just a pair of cats. So I don't feel the need to use ear plugs to drown out any noises while I sleep. If you have kids or loud neighbors dogs or kids, a pair of soft foam ear plugs should do the trick, just make sure your alarm is loud enough to wake you up if you wear them. 

 

White Noise

White noise apps can be downloaded on your phone. They can play white noise, thunderstorms, river/streams/rushing water, fan noise, and various other things that can help put your mind at ease. You can also buy machines, but I think the apps do just fine and they're typically free. You can use a pair of soft earphones with the app in lieu of ear plugs.

Showers

A nice hot shower just before bed helps tremendously. I usually take my melatonin and advil pm as I'm preparing to take my shower. Then I get out dry off, put on my sleep attire, finish my last 2 or 3 things and off to bed I go.

Sleep Schedules

Another important part is keeping the same schedule on the weekend if you can. It's harder for those with kids, because of course your kids and spouse want to see you, do stuff and spend time with you. So if that's you, use 2-4 hour naps to bridge your weekends to your work week the night before you go back to work. Definitely keep the same sleep schedule during the week. Stick by your bed time and get up with your alarm. Some days will be worse than others. Use the power naps to bridge the gaps. 

I have a very nice heated mattress pad which keeps me nice and cozy in the winter time. My thermostat is set at about 70º in my house. In the summer time it's set at 68º. Both of those help your sleep patterns as well because you're comfortable. Too warm and you'll sweat and wake up, too cold and you'll wake up freezing.  A comfortable bed is also a key to a good nights sleep. 

Typically, I get between 7 and 8.5 hours of sleep which is perfect. Each person's needs will vary. I try to zero in on 7.5 - 8. If I get too much, it's just as bad as not getting enough.

Breathing Exercises

I'm not going to post all the methods. I don't even remember which one I initially used, but you can go to the google search link below and read several and try them until you find one that works. 

Breathing Exercises for Sleep

 

Eating Right

Eating right is a big key to getting good sleep. Well balanced nutrition and diet. Avoid soda and sugary foods before bed time. Try an apple or a banana and a small glass of juice instead of a coke or Dr. Pepper. Avoid candy at night as well as the sugary drinks. One or two is ok. 

Don't rely on alcohol to get you to sleep. Or illegal narcotics. If you've tried all my methods above and you still can't get to sleep, you need to schedule an appointment with your physician and start working with them to figure out what's going on. 

Driving

My route starts about 6 pm and ends at 4:30 am. I do fine driving up to my meet point. I get there, take my 30 minute break and do my swap. Then I usually drive back. It's when I'm about 2 hours from the yard I occassionally get tired. When I do, I just pull over in a turnout or an off ramp and put my sleep mask on, set the timer for 12 minutes and lean back in the seat and close my eyes. The timer goes off and I feel refreshed enough to get back to the yard and then home. If you have someone waiting on you, try to not to stop and sleep. It's not fair to them. They're waiting on you and want to get home to their families and obligations. Sleep on your 30 minute break and/or grab a nap on the return leg. Some nights are just tough and you might need two naps. It happens, but not very often. 

Good luck and be safe out there drivers!

Disclaimer

All of the information I have provided above is what worked for me. This should help you establish a baseline and you tweak it from there.  Nothing here is to be construed as or considered medical advice. I am not a doctor, I am not licensed to give medical advice nor is this intended to be medical advice. Talk to your physician if you have any questions  or concerns about these methods.  I am not liable for any use or misuse of these methods. What works for one person, may not work for another. But these are fairly simply and legal methods you can try and experiment with and not run afoul of the DOT Medical Standards or Substance Abuse Policies.

This Blog Is Now On Facebook!

 Just a quick little update here. There's now a facebook page for the blog. So feel free to check it out, give the page a like and share it with your trucker friends. There will be plenty more quality posts to come over the next few months. 

Rocky Mountain Trucker Blog on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090056198243

Winter Driving & Chain Law in Colorado

Good morning everyone! It has been a minute since I have had some time to sit down and update my blog. It’s been on my mind constantly but things have just been SO BUSY. Thankfully I have some time today.

Everyone reacts differently to driving in the snow and ice and having to chain up. Most states have an active chain law on their books for not just commercial trucks, but passenger vehicles as well. However MOST do not exercise or implement them.

Mountain states like Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Montana, California, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, West Virginia, Pennsylvania and Tennessee do so on a yearly basis. I'm sure there's others, but I'm unaware of them or their laws.

What is chain law? Chain law is the necessity for commercial trucks (and at times passengers vehicles) to put tire chains on in order to get up and over very steep hills during winter weather driving conditions. 

So let’s talk about winter driving in Colorado and Colorado chain laws.

Winter time in Colorado presents a lot of challenges for truck drivers. It can be downright dangerous and scary here in winter time. It's completely possible to drive from one side of Colorado to the other and experience all 4 seasons in a single day. That's right. It can be 70º and sunny in Grand Junction and 2 hours later you're going over Vail Pass and Eisenhower and it's heavy snow with a temp of 23º, you're chained up and then you descend down into Denver and it's 35º overcast and by the time you get to Burlington on the CO/KS border it's 12º and sunny. It happens frequently here.

First off we’ll discuss what you should have during your trip across the Rockies.

I am a Linehaul driver and I handle a lot of LTL Freight and Hazmat. LTL is less than truckload meaning the trailer is usually not fully loaded to capacity. Hazmat is an acronym for Hazard Materials. As such I am frequently required to go over Loveland Pass with Hazmat unless the pass is closed. I also pull doubles (A pair of 28’ trailers with a converter dolly).

My equipment list is as follows:

• Chain ramps (you'll need a pair of these, so order two. They get your outer drive tires off the ground. These will only work for a twin screw tractor.)
  
• T-Handle Chain Tool (this gives you leverage to tighten your cams)
  
• Chain Dawg Chain Tool (this is for getting those chains on super tight!)
  
• Ice Fishing Gloves (they help you pick up and throw wet/cold/slippery chains and keep your hands warm and dry. Big bulky gloves do not work).
  
• Ringers R-267 Roughneck Gloves (These have padded knuckles so you don't bang your kunckles on the trailer, your dolly (if applicable) or other parts of the truck or trailers. They really come in handy and they keep grease off your hands.
  
• Waterproof/Insulated Snow Pants (Any outdoors store should have them. I buy mine on consignment at the Wilderness Exchange in Denver.)
  
• Heavy Coat
• Bolt Cutters (sometimes you have to cut your chains off if they get wrapped around your drive axles).
  
• LED Flashlight
• LED Headlamp
• Bungee Cords
• Zippy Ties
• Wire cutters
• Pocket Knife
• Two rolls of toilet paper (There are a couple of truck rest areas to stop and use a bathroom. Vail Pass, Dotsero Truck stop, Rifle rest area. Sometimes they're out of toilet paper. So I always keep two rolls in my truck just in case).
  
• Hoodie
• Beanie or Wool Cap
• Baseball Cap
• Go Girl (This is for the women only. Sometimes the only way you can use a bathroom is one of these and an empty bottle. It stinks but that's reality. Just be sure to dump the contents in the grass or a snowbank and then either save the bottle for later use or deposit it into a trash can.)
• Insulated/Waterproof Boots (I wear Merrell’s boots. They are the most comfortable and require zero break-in period).
  
• Toasty Feet Insoles (Toasty Feet Insoles to keep your feet a warm 72° all day).
  

These items just make my job easier, make me more efficient and saves me a lot of time, struggle and frustration.

Snowpants, heavy coat and waterproof/insulated boots are a MUST. There’s nothing worse than being cold and wet after chaining up and YES you will get cold and wet without them. There's also nothing worse than having cold, wet feet all day long. Chaining sucks as it is, but if you're warm and dry and you have the right equipment, then it's nothing more than a minor inconvenience and a half hour out of your day and then you're back on the road. If you're wet and cold, then you get irritated easier, you're angry and tired and your temper starts to flare.

I am not great at chaining, so I drop my trailers and pull my tractor out and use chain ramps that I slide behind my inner driver tires on my twin screw tractor. The ramps get my outer four tires up off the ground. I slap my chains on, link them with the Chain Dawg chain tool and then tighten the cams with my t-handle tool. I stow my ramps on the catwalk with bungees and re-connect to my trailers and get going. The entire process usually takes me about 25 mins.

Here's a video of how the chain ramps work.

 

So if you’re leaving Denver and headed west you’ll want to look at the road conditions on http://www.cotrip.org.

Check your forecasts on http://www.weather.gov for Silverthorne, Vail Pass and Loveland Pass (if you have Hazmat). These are the major concerns on your journey. But it never hurts to check Dotsero and Rifle as well. 

You MUST carry chains from Sept 1st through May 31st in Colorado. Especially if you're in the mountains. On I-70 it's mile markers 259 (Morrison, CO) through 133 (Dotsero, CO). It is Colorado Law. The weigh stations will be checking. There are also random DOT checkpoints to check for and ensure you have tire chains.

 Single Screws need 2 bags of singles or 2 bags of triple rails. Twin screws need 2 bags of singles. 

You will start climbing grades at Wheat Ridge and Golden. The grades are steep and long. You’ll descend a very steep hill at Floyd Hill and then wind your way to Idaho Springs and the weigh station at Dumont. After that you’ll climb grades to Georgetown, Bakerville and the Eisenhower Tunnel.

If you’re running Hazmat requiring placards, you’ll need to take Exit 216 for Loveland Pass. Pay attention to the signs, if chain law is up you’ll have to sling some iron and chain up. Loveland Pass tops out at 11,990 feet above sea level and the views are fantastic on a clear day. On a wintry day, this pass is intimidating and frightening to even the most experienced and skilled drivers. Limited visibility, icy, snow-packed roads, few guardrails, steep dropoffs, high winds and blowing snow make for a treacherous drive. Be sure to take your time and use extreme care. 20-25 mph speeds are about all you want to do when the roads are bad. Stay in low gear and only use the lowest level on your jake brakes as needed. Stab braking with a 10-15 second pause in between will help you maintain a safe and steady descent and keep you from smoking your brakes.

If you don’t have Hazmat, you’ll continue straight through the Eisenhower Tunnel at 11,158 ft above sea level and descend a steep long grade down to Silverthorne and then climb again to Officers Gulch and Copper Mountain and then you’ll climb up to Vail Pass Summit @ 10,603 ft above sea level. Once you crest Vail Pass you’ll descend another long steep grade into the town of Vail. Watch your speed as Colorado State Troopers love to pull over speeding trucks on Vail (Westbound), Eisenhower (both directions), Georgetown (Eastbound), Chief/Hosa (Eastbound) and Morrison (Eastbound). The town of Vail Police loves to nail speeding truckers as well. All major grades have speed limits of 45 mph for trucks over 26,000 lbs GVWR.

Once you get west of Avon, it’s pretty clear sailing and limited hills and few grades, at least not anything of significance.  There’s a few steep hills west of Eagle that tend to be on the slick side so be careful. Then you have the sharp curves of the Glenwood Canyon and then the short canyon after that from Glenwood Springs to New Castle. Once past New Castle you have a nice easy ride until the sharp curves of the De Beque Canyon which is fairly short. After that you’re in Grand Junction.

If you’re on a Linehaul route like me, you’ll drop trailers, grab new trailers, take your lunch and then you get to do it all again in reverse.😐

 

Chain Stations
https://www.codot.gov/travel/chain-up-stations

Colorado Chain Laws
https://www.codot.gov/travel/colorado-chain-law

Guys and Girls, I keep seeing drivers only putting on one chain on one tire on each side of their twin screw (tandem) tractors and then they spin out on Eisenhower or Vail Pass and then they get stuck. Now they're blocking traffic and EVERYONE is pissed off, they're delayed and traffic gets backed up. Stop being lazy and chain up properly. If you can't do that, then just stay parked. That's all there is to it.

You MUST have chains on your outer four drive tires on a twin axle tractor (also known as a twin screw or tandem) and all four drive tires on a single axle tractor (also known as a single screw tractor.)  

 STOP TAKING SHORTCUTS. STOP BEING LAZY. 

Fines
Not having chains with you is a $50 fine + $67 surcharge ($107)
Refusing to put chains on during chain law is a $500 fine + $157 surgcharge ($667)
Not having chains on and blocking the road is $1,000 fine + $313 surcharge ($1,313)

You can receive a ticket for not chaing up AND for not having chains on and blocking the road, totalling over $1500 in tickets and fines.

They don't affect your CSA score and don't count for points on your license. 

 

Hazmat Routes in Colorado

 

https://dtdapps.coloradodot.info/staticdata/Downloads/StatewideMaps/HazMatMap.pdf

I-70 From Kansas
Take I-70W to 270W to I-76W back onto I-70W. You can NOT run hazmat on I-70 through the new tunnel system. Hazmat is not allowed in tunnels such as Eisenhower or the new I-70 viaduct in Denver. 

I-70 From the Mountains

Take I-70E to I-76E to 270E back onto I-70E.

 

I-25

There are no restrictions on Hazmat up and down I-25 throughout the entire state.

 

US-287 Ft. Collins to Laramie, WY

US-287 North. There is NO Hazmat allowed on US-287 from Ft. Collins to the Colorado/Wyoming Border and up to Laramie. All Hazmat loads MUST take I-25 North to Cheyenne and then either west on I-80 over Sherman Pass or east on I-80. 

 

I-25 & Owl Canyon Road

Do NOT get caught with Hazmat on Owl Canyon Rd. This is the road between I-25 and US-287 just north of Ft. Collins. The Colorado State Patrol Weigh State Van likes to sit on the bridge on Owl Canyon Rd just west of the roundabout and weigh you and check your paperwork. If you are placarded and they see you, you will be ticketed.  if you flipped your placards and they check your paperwork and see hazmat on there, you will be ticketed. The punishment from your company is equally just as bad. The fines are steep. CSP can place you out of service and you can even be criminally charged for reckless endangerment and you can lose your Hazmat Endorsement for 5 years, 10 years or life. Without a Hazmat Endorsement on your CDL, you can kiss your Linehaul Job goodbye.

US-287 Campo to Limon

There is no restriction on Hazmat on this route

 

E-470/C-470 Toll Road

Hazmat is now allowed on this route. 

https://www.e-470.com/app/uploads/2022/04/Hazmat-Info-Sheet-2022.pdf

 

 

In Denver & Aurora

You cannot go North on Tower Road with Hazmat. You may only use Tower Rd if your shipper/consignee or terminal are in the immediate vicinity.  

No Hazmat is allowed on CO Hwy 2 unless your shipper, consignee or terminal are in the immediate vicinity.

Flipping Hazmat Placards

Don't do it! We all have thought about flipping our placards and going through the Eisenhower Tunnel to avoid going over Loveland Pass. I know some drivers who have done it. There are drivers who still do it every single day. It's not worth it. It's not worth your job, your CDL or your hazmat endorsement. 

 

Recently a tanker driver tried to flip his placards and sneak into the Eisenhower Tunnel so he didn't have to go over Loveland Pass. A CDOT employee saw and reported him. He was stopped near the tunnel. He was charged with Reckless Endangerment and lost his Hazmat Endorsement. Honestly, he should have lost his CDL for life. 

 

There's no place for this behavior. There's safety rules in place for a reason. We may not like them, we may not agree with them, but we must abide by them. No one wants to go over Loveland Pass when it's snowy and icy, but it's our job and it's the law.

https://cdllife.com/2020/trucker-admits-he-tried-to-sneak-a-hazmat-load-into-eisenhower-tunnel/

Truck Parking

This map here shows you all the spots you can park along the I-70 Corridor. 

 

https://www.codot.gov/safety/traffic-safety/assets/documents/truck_parking_guide.pdf


Readers: CDOT and other websites often change their web links to information. If you see a dead link please leave me a comment below and let me know so I can get you updated information!

Winter Driving

Snow/Ice Driving

Note: It's been awhile since I have updated my blog, so here's my latest post and more will be following in the coming weeks. 

Slow down, take your time, increase your following distance. DO NOT SLAM OR HIT YOUR BRAKES. Remove your foot from the fuel pedal, and gradually downshift.

If you need to brake, gently and firmly push the brake pedal and gradually slow down. Slamming on the brakes, stomping on them out of fear or riding them will only cause you to slide/skid and you most likely will have an accident and/or end up in a ditch, ravine, in the median or off on the side of the road or possibly hitting other vehicles on the road. It may also cause your commercial vehicle to jackknife. 

If there’s ice under the snow and your tires are constantly slipping, pull over, turn on your hazards and shut it down till the roads are cleared and/or conditions improve. Don’t risk your CDL, your driving record or your ability to get another trucking job. 

If it’s an ice storm, freezing rain/drizzle or sleet...DO NOT DRIVE and do not let any Fleet Manager or Dispatcher or Driver Manger coerce or force or talk you into driving. All you need to do is pull out “I don’t feel safe driving in these conditions” card, and they can’t make you or ask you to continue. The discussion is over at the point.

Follow that up by sending a message on your Qualcomm, “At this time, I don’t feel safe continuing to drive due to [insert inclement weather condition (sleet/ice/freezing rain/deep or heavy snow], once roads are clear and weather conditions improve, I will be glad to resume driving, if hours of service permit me to do so. No loaded trailer full of goods is or will ever be worth your life, your well being, CDL or driving record. PERIOD! (If you don't have a Qualcomm, send a text message, leave a voicemail or follow it up with an email to your immediate supervisor or Terminal Manager).

If you are pulling a trailer, whether or empty or loaded, and you are driving TOO SLOWLY on snow or ice, this can be just as dangerous as driving TOO FAST. If you are driving too slowly, and you are on a road that is snow and ice packed, your trailer rear will start dancing to the left or the right. The same is true if going too slowly down a snow/ice packed grade. Maintain at least 20-25 mph. Any less can cause you to lose control of your trailer, jack knife and have an accident or end up in a ditch or the median wall.

If your trailer starts to jack knife and your tractor heads to your left, you need to steer INTO it (the same direction you’re headed) and give a little press of the fuel pedal. DO NOT PANIC or smash on the brakes. Remember, your trailer will ALWAYS FOLLOW you. Once you give it a little fuel and steer into it, the trailer will straighten out and you will regain control, then let off the fuel and allow your speed to drop back down to an acceptable level, but not too slow or it will happen again. 

If you are driving on a snow-packed/icy highway and you feel your tires break traction and it heads towards the guardrail or median, let off the fuel pedal, DO NOT hit the brakes or panic. The truck SHOULD typically come back in control and you should be able to return to the lane you were previously in, provided there is no traffic near you. This happening is an indicator you are going to fast and you need to reduce speed.

Colorado, Wyoming, Kansas and Nebraska can all present very hazardous winter weather driving conditions. I highly recommend you fully fuel and top your DEF off prior to each trip. You never know when you might need to sit and idle for hours at a time because the road closes or because visibility is so bad you can't see. Also, carry a bottle of anti-gel and a bottle or two of Diesel 911 as well. These can keep your fuel from gelling up or ungel your fuel. 

Happy New Year and stay safe out there drivers! 

Trailer Weights and Sliding Tandems

Sliding tandems.

If you didn’t learn this in CDL School, you will get a crash course on how to set your tandems and what states require what lengths. You are expected to take notes and remember this information. It could cost you THOUSANDS of dollars in fines if you don’t. California and Georgia specifically being the worst.

If you need to slide your tandems forward, you will exit the truck, walk to the rear driver side, pull the tandem-locking arm out and secure it. Get back in the truck and you will set your trailer brakes (red knob), pull down on your Johnson bar, and release your tractor brakes (yellow knob), and put the truck in reverse and go backwards till the trailer stops. Get out and release the locking arm, and verify your pin is back in the hole. If it’s not, you need to rock the truck by going forward and backwards until the pin is back in the hole.

If you need to slide your tandems to the back, you will exit the truck, walk to the rear driver side, pull the tandem locking arm out and secure it, get back in the truck and you will set you trailer brakes (red knob), pull down on your Johnson bar, and release your tractor brakes (yellow knob), put the truck in low gear and pull forward till the trailer stops moving. Get out and release the locking arm.

Now, you’re probably saying...well how do I know how far to slide them and which way to go?

There’s a “BASELINE FORMULA” for that.

Tandem Setting Formula (Tandems Forward)
Each hole = 250 lbs. (on a standard trailer)
Maximum Gross Weight (Truck/Trailer/Cargo) = 80,000 lbs.
Maximum Front Steer Axles Weight = 12,000 lbs. (Front Tractor Axles) Maximum Drive Axles Weight = 34,000 lbs. (Rear Tractor Axles) Maximum Trailer Axles Weight = 34,000 lbs. (Rear Trailer Tandem Axles)

Example 1
Gross Weight = 80,000 lbs. Front Steers = 11,200 lbs. Drive Axles = 36,000 lbs. Tandems = 32,800 lbs.
Your load is not legal. You are 2,000 lbs. overweight on your Drive Axles.
To figure out where your tandems need to be, use the following formula
Drive Axles 36,000 lbs. Minus Tandems – 32,800 lbs.
-----------------
3,200 lbs. (Difference)

Divide the difference by 2 (2 axles, Drives and Steers)
3,200 lbs. / 2 = 1,600 lbs. proportioning weight


Now take the proportioning weight and divide by 250 ( this is the # of lbs. per hole)
1,600 lbs. / 250 = 6.4 holes


In this case, your drive axles have too much weight. Therefore they are the problem.

So to properly proportion your load, you will always SLIDE TOWARDS the problem. So you will slide your tandems FORWARD 7 holes (since we can’t technically slide
6.4 holes). 

Mark it with chalk before you slide.  When you slide the tandems FORWARD, the truck is going in reverse. Set your trailer brakes, release your tractor brakes, pull down on your Johnson bar, and put the truck in reverse and slowly back up. Your load should now be legal.

Tandem Setting Formula (Tandems Back)
Each hole = 250 lbs. (on a standard trailer)
Maximum Gross Weight (Truck/Trailer/Cargo) = 80,000 lbs.
Maximum Front Steer Axles Weight = 12,000 lbs. (Front Tractor Axles) Maximum Drive Axles Weight = 34,000 lbs. (Rear Tractor Axles) Maximum Trailer Axles Weight = 34,000 lbs. (Rear Trailer Tandem Axles)

Example 2
Gross Weight = 79,400 lbs. Front Steers = 11,600 lbs. Drive Axles = 30,600 lbs. Tandems = 37,200 lbs.
Your load is not legal. You are 3,200 lbs. overweight on your Trailer Tandem Axles.
To figure out where your tandems need to be, use the following formula
Drive Axles 37,200 lbs. Minus Tandems – 30,600 lbs.
-----------------
6,600 lbs. (Difference)

Divide the difference by 2 (2 axles, Drives and Steers)
6,600 lbs. / 2 = 3,300 lbs. proportioning weight


Now take the proportioning weight and divide by 250 ( this is the # of lbs. per hole)
3,300 lbs. / 250 = 13.2 holes


In this case, your trailer tandem axles have too much weight. Therefore they are the problem. So to properly proportion your load, you will always SLIDE TOWARDS the problem. 

 
So you will slide your tandems BACKWARDS 14 holes (since we can’t technically slide 13.2 holes).

When you slide the tandems BACKWARD, the truck is going forwards. Set your trailer brakes, release your tractor brakes, pull down on your Johnson bar, and put the truck in low/1st gear and slowly drive forward.

Use chalk to mark your tandem holes so you know where to slide.

Now, if you don’t have enough holes to slide forward or backwards, your load must be re-worked (unloaded and re-loaded and redistributed) by the shipper because you will not be able to get it DOT legal.

NOTE: A standard trailer will have holes that account for 250 lbs. of weight being moved forward or backward. If you go to a different company that uses different trailers, each of the holes may account for 400#, 500#, or 750# of weight. So be sure to remember, this is a baseline formula, and to adjust it as necessary. But the principle remains the same.
 

Occasionally, you MIGHT see a trailer that has a push/pull button release for the tandems.
Pull it out to slide.

Push it back in when you’re done to secure the tandems

Scaling a Load

You will be shown how to get your load scaled at a CAT SCALE or other scaling house. You will need to know how to slide your tandems and how to calculate for fuel.
1 gallon of diesel fuel weighs 8 lbs. Your truck holds 100 gallons of fuel in each tank. Your truck has 2 tanks. So it can hold 200 gallons of diesel fuel, which will weigh 1600 pounds. This must be figured into your load. Truck and trailer empty will usually weigh about 34,000 pounds combined.

If you have to slide your tandems to get weight from one axle to another, remember, each hole you move forward or backward is equivalent to 250-300 pounds.
(See the formula in the previous section above).

If you scale at a shipper, DO NOT ever assume their scale is accurate. Use their scale to get an idea of what your weights are, and then go to the nearest available CAT Scale (usually at any truck stop) and scale your load.

Note the discrepancy here. The shipper’s scale is in white.


Axle Weights
It’s in your state’s commercial driver’s manual. You need to know the axle weight restrictions/limitations for each state, because they will vary from state to state. However, the majority of the states have the same standard. Research it, make a chart, and keep it handy. You will be expected to know these items. In general, this is the acceptable status quo for axle weights across the nation.
Steer Axle – 12,000 lbs.
Tractor Drive Axle – 34,000 lbs. Trailer Rear Axles – 34,000 lbs. --------------------------------------- MAX GVWR – 80,000 lbs.

 

However, in Colorado, it’s
Steer Axle – 20,000 lbs.
Tractor Drive Axle – 36,000 lbs.
Trailer Rear Axles – 36,000 lbs.
---------------------------------------

MAX GVWR – 80,000 lbs. (The axle weights can exceed 34,000 lbs., but the MAX GVWR cannot exceed 80,000 lbs.) 

Colorado and Wyoming Weigh Stations

Wyoming Weigh Stations
If the pre-pass orders you to stop, you must stop and following the signal indicators. If green side, go to the scale and get weighed. If red x, park on the backside, get your Wyoming Permit, Registration, Trailer Registration, Insurance, Bill of Lading, your CDL and your Company ID and take them inside to the DOT Inspector. He will ask you if you are hauling HAZMAT. Answer Yes/No (depending on your load). 

If your pre-pass does not indicate red or green, YOU MUST GO IN TO THE WEIGH STATION IF IT IS OPEN.

At the Laramie weigh station on US-287 just south of I-80, you will either get a green light, a yellow light (park and bring in registration) or a red light (stop as directed to weigh each axle, then bring in permits and registration).


Colorado
If the pre-pass orders you to go in to be weighed, you must pull into the weigh station and follow the sign indicators. Usually they will have you weigh each axle and then allow you to proceed. Occasionally they will ask you to park and come inside. When you do, bring your CDL, DOT Medical Card, Bill of Lading, Registration AND insurance. You will need to bring in any applicable permits or HAZMAT paperwork as well. 

If your pre-pass does not indicate red or green, YOU MUST GO IN TO THE WEIGH STATION IF IT IS OPEN.


DOT INSPECTIONS
At times, you might hit a weigh station or a random checkpoint and get popped for a DOT inspection of the truck and trailer. If you are in the driver’s seat, YOU are responsible for the condition of that truck and trailer. Not me, not the Company. ONLY YOU! Your pre-trip inspection is the most important part of your day. Miss something and it can and will cost you money.

When you get close to a weigh station, it’s best to clear your dash off, turn off the radio, roll down your window (the one nearest to the scale house), exit at the speed that the yellow and black sign shows, keep both hands on the wheel. Do not look at the scale house, keep your eyes straight ahead, but make sure you check your mirrors. Be in low or 2nd gear, and creeping along at 2-3 mph. They’re looking for a reason to pull you in for an inspection, don’t give them one. Don’t be fumbling around for things, keep good posture, eyes looking forward, both hands on the wheel and follow the signs and indicators. If they speak to you via the loudspeaker system, then look at the scale house.

Most DOT Inspectors are looking for working lights, working brakes and ABS sensors, working turn signals, wipers, wiper fluid functioning, 4 ways, license plate lights, mirrors working and not broken, air horn functioning, no leaks under the truck, tire tread within required limits on the truck and trailer. You also need to have your CDL card, DOT Medical Card and long form, truck registration, permits, insurance, your bill of lading and your trailer registration handy when he asks for it. Know where they are before you start driving so they are quickly accessible. If you spend a lot of time looking for them, he will just get impatient and write you a violation for not having it. Also, do NOT cop an attitude with them or have a smart mouth. When you do that, they go looking for reasons to write you a citation. Citations/tickets and violations affect your CSA (Compliance, Safety and Accountability) Scores. Too high of a CSA Score can and will get you shut down and/or get you fired.

Level III - Driver/Credential Inspection – An examination that includes those items specified under the North American Standard Level III Driver/Credential


Inspection Procedure. As a minimum, Level III inspections must include, where required and/or applicable, examination of the driver’s license; medical examiner’s certificate and Skill Performance Evaluation (SPE) Certificate; driver’s record of duty status; hours of service; seat belt; vehicle inspection report(s); and HM/DG requirements. Those items not indicated in the North American Standard Level III Driver/Credential Inspection Procedure shall not be included on a Level III inspection.


Level II - Walk-Around Driver/Vehicle Inspection– Includes the aspects of the Level III DOT Inspection. An examination that includes each of the items specified under the North American Standard Level II Walk-Around Driver/Vehicle Inspection Procedure. As a minimum, Level II inspections must include examination of: driver’s license; medical examiner’s certificate and Skill Performance Evaluation (SPE) Certificate (if applicable); alcohol and drugs; driver’s record of duty status as required; hours of service; seat belt; vehicle inspection report(s) (if applicable); brake systems; coupling devices; exhaust systems; frames; fuel systems; lighting devices (headlamps, tail lamps, stop lamps, turn signals and lamps/flags on projecting loads); securement of cargo; steering mechanisms; suspensions; tires; van and open-top trailer bodies; wheels, rims and hubs; windshield wipers; emergency exits and/or electrical cables and systems in engine and battery compartments (buses), and HM/DG requirements as applicable. HM/DG required inspection items will be inspected by certified HM/DG inspectors. It is contemplated that the walk-around driver/vehicle inspection will include only those items, which can be inspected without physically getting under the vehicle.


Level I - North American Standard Inspection – An inspection that includes examination of driver’s license; medical examiner’s certificate and Skill Performance Evaluation (SPE) Certificate (if applicable); alcohol and drugs; driver’s record of duty status as required; hours of service; seat belt; vehicle inspection report(s) (if applicable); brake systems; coupling devices; exhaust systems; frames; fuel systems; lighting devices (headlamps, tail lamps, stop lamps, turn signals and lamps/flags on projecting loads); securement of cargo; steering mechanisms; suspensions; tires; van and open-top trailer bodies; wheels, rims and hubs; windshield wipers; emergency exits and/or electrical cables and systems in engine and battery compartments (buses), and HM/DG requirements as applicable. HM/DG required inspection items will be inspected by certified HM/DG inspectors.


Permits
Many states require permits to do certain things. Know where your permit book is; verify that all your permits are current and up to date (if they aren’t notify your Dispatcher or Safety Department). Oregon and Wyoming are particular sticklers. Be prepared to present permits in case DOT or Law Enforcement stops you.


Tolls
Your company may or may not give you toll passes. Black pre-pass (most national toll booths and weigh stations), Kansas Turnpike and Oklahoma Turnpike passes. The black one is used primarily for weigh stations, if it beeps rapidly and the light turns red, you must enter the weigh station. If it beeps slowly and the light is green, you may bypass the weigh station.

Getting a New Trucking Job

So you've been a truck driver for a while and you want to get a new job that pays more money, maybe a little more home time? Or perhaps you want a job where you're home every night?

You can research a Trucking Company here
https://www.thetruckersreport.com/truckingindustryforum/


Well, there's some things you NEED to know BEFORE you fill that out application for that new job.

1.) Your Colorado Motor Vehicle Report (if you live in another state, pull the state you live in). You can go to your local Driver's License Bureau in Colorado and get a copy.  Make sure you ask for a certified copy.  They will stamp it and imprint the state seal so that it proves that it is an official copy. The cost is $10.

You can find a location nearest to you here
https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1PQlBindfaGsFo51NKvjYwMlVMAk&ll=39.01253494815239%2C-106.18308118906248&z=7

Keep this in mind...from the day you obtained a standard driving license in Colorado, every ticket, accident and violation you have had whether with a standard driving license or a Commercial Driver's License will appear on your Colorado Motor Vehicle Report.  Violations and accidents do not fall off after 3 years.  However, points will fall off of your Colorado MVR after 24 months, BUT a company that pulls your MVR can see the violation and how many points it was even if the points have already expired by Colorado's standards.  

2.) Your HireRight DAC Report

https://ows01.hireright.com/consumer_request/entry?entry=create_consumer_request

The DAC report contains EVERY piece of information on you since you came into the transportation industry.  Your job history, your residence history, your preventable accidents that you have had with each trucking company, your criminal background history and I'm sure there's a few other things in there. Using the link above it costs you NOTHING to obtain a copy.  You can either obtain a copy in the mail or you can opt to receive a PDF file in your email (recommended).


3.) PSP Report (Pre-Employment Screening)

https://www.psp.fmcsa.dot.gov/psp/home

This contains ALL of your DOT Inspections and ANY AND ALL accidents you had in a Commercial Vehicle.  (This will not have any information regarding accidents or tickets in your personal vehicle).  The items on this report remain there for 3 years.

Once you have all three of these reports, you need to carefully go over them and look for ANY discrepancies, errors or inconsistent information and if you find any, you need to contest it.  You should be pulling these reports ONCE A YEAR to ensure accuracy even if you aren't looking for a new job.  Inaccurate or erroneous information can get you terminated or suspended from your current job.

Your PSP will retain all accident and inspection information.  Inspections will stay on for 3 years. Crashes involving a CMV will stay on for 5 years. A crash is considered anything with a police report and damage. 

 

However, I have noticed a deer strike that I had where damage on was never reported to the PSP and doesn't show up. So go figure. You're largely at the mercy of the law enforcement official taking the report and submitting it. 

If you have an animal strike, ALWAYS get a copy of the police report and keep that with you so if you go to an interview you can show them that and they can take a copy.

Edit: 08/03/2024

You can now challenge or appeal things on your FMCSA PSP report by using the FMCSA DataQ system.

https://dataqs.fmcsa.dot.gov/

4.)  10 Year Job History - Have this written down or typed up in a MS Word document.  You must account for ANY and ALL gaps in employment.  Starting date to ending date.  (mm/dd/yy - mm/dd/yy.  However some employer's applications may only ask for the month and year).  Always keep this up to date and readily available.  You will need company name, addresses, phone numbers, supervisor name, your position there, reason for leaving.  

5.)  10 Year Residence History - Have this written down or typed up in a MS Word document. Always keep this up to date and readily available.  Know the physical address, city, state and zip code and the beginning dates and end dates. 

6.)  10 Year Traffic Ticket History - A listing of ALL traffic tickets you received in the past 10 years.  Most companies will either ask for 10 years of ticket history, 7 years, 5 years or 3 years.  It will vary from company to company.  If it shows up on your MVR, DAC Report or PSP report, you MUST LIST IT on your application! Failure to list any ticket on those three reports will constitute falsifying your application and you will be kicked out of the hiring process or if hired, you can later be terminated.  Most companies don't require the listing of parking tickets.  All others must be listed.

7.)  10 Year Accident History - List all accidents and preventables that you've had in the past 10 years.  Again, some companies will ask for 10 year history, 7 year history, 5 year history or 3 year history.  The better the company the more strict their standards will be and the harder it is to get on there.  This is because they want SAFE DRIVERS!  If it shows up on your MVR, DAC Report or PSP report, you MUST LIST IT on your application! Failure to list any accidents or preventables on those three reports will constitute falsifying your application and you will be kicked out of the hiring process or if hired, you can later be terminated.  Doesn't matter if it was in your car or your Commercial Truck, they must be listed.

(Note: I typically keep all my 10 year history in a single Word document and I export it to PDF and then email it to myself and upload it to my phone, so I have it anywhere at anytime should I need it.

I also keep a scanned copy of my MVR, CDL w/ Endorsements, My DAC Report PDF, My PSP Report PDF, and my 10 year history PDF in a file folder on my computer as well as attaching all four documents to an email and sending it to myself and then uploading all four documents to my phone.  You never know when you will need them.)

8.) If you plan on applying for a job that requires a Hazmat Endorsement, Triples/Doubles or Tankers Endorsement, BE SURE TO GET THEM BEFORE you apply for the job.  Most companies don't want to wait on you to get them.  They want you to have them when you apply and be ready to go to work as quickly as possible.

The DMV Genie App allows you to study and practice taking CMV tests, Endorsement tests for Doubles/Triples, HAZMAT,  and Tanker.  You can use it for any state, for standard driver's licenses or commercial driver's licenses.  You can take the tests as many times as you need.  The tests on the app are nearly identical to the test's administered in Colorado, however on the actual Colorado tests, the wording on a few questions is a little different, so be on the lookout for that. You get two chances a day to take the test and pass it, so study on the app while you're sitting there waiting your turn, then go knock it and get it done!

So if you have an android phone

Download the DMV Genie Practice Test App

if you have an iPhone

Download the DMV Genie Practice Test App

9.)  Call the CORPORATE OFFICE (do not call your local terminal) of the company that you want to apply to and ask to speak someone in Human Resources and ask them the following questions

• How many points do you allow on your license and in what time frame?
• How many moving violations do you allow and in what time frame?
• How many accidents do you allow and in what time frame?
• What is the total combination of accidents and tickets you allow and in what time frame?
• Do you hire drivers with felonies? (if applicable)
• Do you hire drivers with serious traffic offenses? (careless, reckless, DWI/DUI, etc if applicable)

If you fall in their standards for hire, then you can apply for the job.  However, say for instance you have 6 points on your license in the past 7 years and the company you are wanting to apply to only allows 4 points in the past 7 years, then you know you aren't eligible so why waste your time or theirs?  

Knowing these things beforehand can save you a lot of time and disappointment.

Now that you have all this information accumulated and you know what's on those reports, you can now fill out your job application.  Fill it out COMPLETELY and TRUTHFULLY.  Honesty is always the best policy.  You don't want to be disqualified from the hiring process.

You can expect to have a sit down interview, a road test, a drug test and a DOT Physical. Take your time on your road test, obey all traffic signs, use your mirrors and ALWAYS assume you have Hazmat on the road test and stop at every railroad crossing, even if you aren't asked to.  

Once your background check and MVR come back, you can expect to get a Final Offer of Employment and you will be asked when you want to start.  

Be sure to ALWAYS give your current employer 2 weeks notice.  If they say they don't need you to stay 2 weeks, be sure to get a letter from your boss in writing or email stating this for your records.  

Now you're all set to start that new job! Good luck! 

OTR vs. Linehaul vs. P&D

The most common form of trucking is OTR or Over the Road.  Usually you're pulling a 53' dryvan or a flatbed and you might go over the Western 12 states, you might go all 48 states or you might be in a certain region like the Midwest, Northeast or the Southeast depending on the company you work for and their freight lanes. OTR drivers can typically expect to be out 2-6 weeks at a time before getting home time.  Drivers can expect to face a huge number of variables.  Road construction, road closures, consignees with excessive obstacles in and around their facilities, tight backing, dangerous conditions, dangerous weather, tornadoes, wind, ice, snow, freezing rain, flooding, extreme heat or cold, rush hour traffic.  For an inexperienced driver fresh out of training with a trainer, OTR can be VERY intimidating and you might find yourself in a number of difficult situations that you aren't prepared to handle or deal with.  If that ends up being the case, don't be afraid to ask your company for a dedicated route until you get more comfortable with the truck and your backing.  

To the inexperienced driver, OTR can be very difficult.  Depending on the company you work for, freight may be slow, miles limited, and you may find it difficult to make steady income. At Werner I was averaging about $550-$600 a week BEFORE taxes and that's just not very much money for an over the road truck driver.  You should be grossing at least $1200 a week OTR in order to make it.  If you're not, you need to find a new job or go to a dedicated route or regional run.  

Regional runs you typically can go out to a destination and back every day or you might have several stops over a multi-state area and then you're back after 2-3 days out.  These will pay much more than OTR.  

Linehaul trucking is you usually go up to about 300 miles in any direction get to a swap point, meet another driver swap trailers, come back and drop your trailers and go home at the end of your shift.  Usually pays the best too. Most LH drivers are making about $1400 - $2100 PER WEEK. Yes, you read that right...PER WEEK! 

P&D is pickup and delivery.  Usually you go within a 100 mile radius of your home terminal you stop and drop loads, you might have to unload your own freight and load up other freight, scan boxes or pallets and pick up freight.  You might have several stops a day and you do this 5 or 6 days a week.   Typically in or around the city where you are based out of.  Backing can be extremely tight or difficult.  You might pull a 53' trailer or a 28' pup trailer.  Typically warehouses and distribution centers.  These drivers are usually paid hourly instead of by the mile since the miles are so low.  I think it's around $19-$34 an hour depending on the company.  

Oilfields are a whole different animal. I haven't ever worked in the oilfields, nor do I care too, but they are usually so many days on, then so many days off (like 14 on, 6 off or something like that) and the hours are like 24-36 hours at a time.  I wouldn't be able to stay awake that long! 

Endorsements and Restrictions

https://ustruck.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Colorado-CDL-Manual-2018.pdf

I took this excerpt from the Colorado CDL Manual, located on page 8 (link above).  It discusses the CDL Classes, Endorsements and Restrictions.

The more endorsements you have, the more marketable you are, which means you can get a better job, you can make more money and work for better companies.  It's my recommendation that once you pass your CDL test and get your license, spend a few days studying the manual and go get all of your endorsements.  It makes you extremely valuable to the industry and to the better paying companies.  The tests are pretty easy and they cost like $14 each I think.  

If you have an iPhone, you can download the DMV Genie Permit Practice Test and take practice tests and they are very close to the Colorado tests.  Study your manual, take the practice tests and then go get your endorsements. It's that easy. 


CDL Overview (Page 8 of the CO CDL Manual)

CDL Vehicle Classes
Class A — Combination Vehicles. Any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more provided the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of the vehicle(s) being towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds.

Class B — Heavy Straight Vehicles. Any single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 pounds or more, or any such vehicle towing a vehicle not in excess of 10,000 pounds GVWR.

Class C — Small Vehicles. Any single vehicle or combination of vehicles that meets neither the de nition of Class A, nor that of Class B, but that is either designed to transport 16 or more passengers, including the driver, or is used in the transportation of materials found to be hazardous for the purposes of the Hazardous Materials Transportation Act and which require the motor vehicle to be placarded under the Hazardous Materials Regulations 49 CFR part 172, Subpart F.

Representative Vehicle. For purposes of taking the skill tests, a representative vehicle for a given vehicle class is any commercial motor vehicle that meets the de nition of that vehicle class. A truck tractor is designed to operate with a towed unit(s), typically a semi-trailer and therefore could only be used as a representative vehicle when connected to a semi-trailer, for the Class A CDL.

Relation Between Vehicle Classes. Each driver applicant who desires to operate in a different CMV group from the one that his or her CDL authorizes is required to take and pass all related tests, except the following:

• A driver who has passed the knowledge and skill tests for a combination vehicle (Class A) may operate a heavy straight vehicle (Class B) or a small vehicle (Class
  C), provided that he or she possesses the required endorsement(s); and
  
• A driver who has passed the knowledge and skill tests for a heavy straight vehicle (Class B) may operate any small vehicle (Group C), if he or she possesses the required endorsement(s).
  
• A driver that operates vehicles with air-over hydraulic brake systems or air-assisted brake systems will not be allowed to drive vehicles equipped with “full” air brake systems.
  

CDL Endorsements


T – Double/Triple Trailers – a knowledge test P – Passenger – knowledge and skill tests
N – Tank Vehicle – a knowledge test
H – Hazardous Materials – a knowledge test S – School Bus – knowledge and skill tests X – Hazmat/Tanker Combination


CDL Restrictions
C – Corrective lenses.
L – Air brake restriction. If an applicant either fails the air brake component of the knowledge test, or performs the skill tests in a vehicle not equipped with a “full” air brake system, the person is restricted from operating a CMV equipped with a “full” air brake system.
K – Intrastate only. For individuals between the ages of
18 through 20, or for individuals who do not meet
the Department of Transportation (DOT) medical requirements but have been issued a waiver from the Colorado State Patrol (CSP) to operate a CDL vehicle.
E – No manual transmission. Tests in a vehicle with a transmission other than a manual.
M – No Class A passenger vehicle. Tests in Class B Passenger Vehicle.
N – No Class A and B passenger vehicle. Tests in Class C Passenger Vehicle.
O – No tractor trailer. Tests in a vehicle with a coupling system other than a Fifth Wheel.
P – No passengers in a CMV bus. Passengers not allowed on the vehicle.
V – Medical variance.
X – No cargo in CMV tank vehicle. Tank vehicle must be
purged of all liquid.
Z – No full air brake equipped CMV. Tests in Vehicle with Air over Hydraulic Brake type system. 

Choosing a Trucking Company

Choosing a company to get your start with can be a daunting task.  Which company do I choose? Which one offers the best career path?  

Well, that's not an easy question and it depends on a LOT of factors.  

The first thing you need to do to make this path easier is to run a CBI Background check on yourself

https://www.cbirecordscheck.com

If it's clean you have a good start to a good career in trucking.  If it's not, this will unfortunately limit your options depending on how recent the charge was and what the charge was for.  Many companies WILL NOT hire felons.  Some will hire felons but require the charge be 5, 7 or 10 years old before they will hire you.  Other companies will hire ANYONE.  It just depends on the company you are trying to get on with. 

The next thing you need to do is go get a copy of your Colorado Motor Vehicle Record (MVR).  If it's clear and your background check is clear, you're gonna pretty much have the pick of the litter of who you want to work for.  

You can request is here or go to the office in Lakewood, CO and get a copy (always get a CERTIFIED COPY which is stamped with the state seal).

https://www.colorado.gov/pacific/dmv/motor-vehicle-record

If both of the above are clear, the only other thing that can really hinder you is an unstable work history.  Jumping from job to job is frowned upon in any industry, but often overlooked in trucking with exception to the upper tier companies.  They generally like to see stability and someone willing to stay somewhere for extended periods of time.  If your job history is stable, well you're set! You can go to work for the best of the best right off the bat.  

If you meet these circumstances I suggest applying to companies like UPS, FedEx Freight, Old Dominion, SAIA, Estes, XPO/Conway, R+L Carriers.  You can also get company sponsored training with these companies under their Driver Apprentice Programs.  (These are the companies I would make an exception to for going with Company Sponsored training because these are TOP QUALITY companies that care about their drivers and won't rip you off.)  These companies you can expect to make $0.50 cents per mile or more, be home most every night and have a day or two off each week.  Linehaul/LTL is in my opinion the way to go.  It pays the best, you are home every night, you get two days off and you can still have a somewhat normal life and is less demanding on those of you with families and parental obligations.    

If you have unstable job history, tickets, and/or criminal record or any combination, your option of companies could be severely limited depending on your circumstances.  You'll end up working for what is commonly known as a MEGA Company (lots of trucks, lots of drivers, low pay) with sub-standard equipment, horrible company policies that are abusive towards the driver, terrible route options, low pay and crummy working conditions.  Not every mega is a bad company.  I worked for Werner and they were ok.  I was treated like a human being and I managed to get on a dedicated route in Ft. Collins at the Budweiser brewery.  I made $900 a week guaranteed, which for a beginner truck driver is pretty solid.  That's $45,000 a year and very respectable for an entry level truck driver.  However, Werner does micromanage their drivers.  They watch fuel mileage, idle time, logbooks for errors or improper logging, and what not.  But MOST major companies do this anyhow. I guess my point is if you gotta put up with being micromanaged, go do it for a company that pays very well so it's worth your while.  When I worked for Werner in 2014, OTR pay was $0.26 cpm and I rarely got any load that were over 600-700 miles and when I did, they were intercepted by NetOps.  I switched to that dedicated account and was much happier, I got comfortable with my truck, backing and my stops and enjoyed a steady paycheck.

Mega Company's (What I call lower tier companies)

Consist of Werner, CR England, Schneider, Swift/Knight Transportation, JB Hunt, US Express, Shephard and Watkins, Prime, Averitt, Roehl, CRST, TransAm, Western Express, Butler, Andrus, Covenant.  These are the bottom of the barrel bottom feeders.  These companies are known to prey on drivers, engage in abusive employment practices, use sliding pay scales, withhold pay, take advantage of drivers, use them and are known to abandon you on the side of the road with your belongings and no way home.  You will usually make between $32,000 and $50,000 a year at best as a solo driver.

Middle of the Pack

FedEx Ground, Millis Transfer, Raines and Sons, Crete, Melton, JBS Carriers, Wal-Mart, Sealy Mattress, and I'll try to list others later.  These are above average, usually good pay, benefits, home time and will take care of you, but you won't make more than $65,000 a year as a solo driver.  

Leaders of the Pack

These are the big boys where you'll make bank.  UPS, FedEx Freight, Estes Trucking, Groendyke, Solar Transport, SAIA Trucking, Old Dominion Freight Lines, R+L Carriers, XPO/Conway Trucking,   Pepsi, Coca-Cola, Frito Lay, Budweiser/Anheuser-Busch, Coors.  These companies usually start at $0.53 cpm (cents per mile) on up.  UPS top pay drivers are making $0.73 CPM or more with a few years experience.  Most, if not all of these jobs average about $75,000 a year up to $120,000 a year.  

These lists are all inclusive of every company but it gives you a general idea.  

Here's my pay scale as I progressed

Year 1 - $32,000

Year 2 - $45,900

Year 3 - $55,900

Year 4 - $70,000

Year 5 -  I should be in the $92,000 range. 

If you want to know more about each company I suggest you go over to The Trucker's Report and read up.  Just remember, every company will have positive and negative reviews.  Someone always complains about something, so take complaints with a grain of salt.  Every company has their issues and problems.  Good drivers can succeed at a bad company if they really want to. So keep that in mind.  Don't let one driver's horror story scare you away from a company, but evaluate everything. 

What Type of Trucking is for Me?

You might be asking which type of trucking is for you.  Most students generally have seen a certain type of trucking at a young age and have their mind made up before they ever become a truck driver or start school.  Others (like me) figure it out as they go.  

My trucking career began in a 53' dryvan.  Werner was the company that I started with.  After I did a year with Werner to get my experience and get comfortable with the truck and backing, I decided to give flatbed a try but after about 6 weeks, I realized it was not for me as I didn't care very much for it or having to tarp and untarp my loads and folding or rolling the tarp up after I was done.  Once on a windy day in Colorado Springs, the wind caught the tarp I was handling and picked me up about fifteen feet off the ground and dropped me into the grass.  That was the end of my flatbed trucking days.  

After driving flatbed, I started pulling doubles (a pair of 28' pup trailers with a converter dolly).  It was here I found my niche in trucking.  This is typically called LTL/Linehaul trucking.  LTL is less than truckload because the trailers usually aren't loaded to full capacity and you run what is called a Linehaul Route.  Linehaul Routes consist of leaving one destination, for example Denver and driving to Wamsutter, Wyoming which is the halfway point between Denver and Salt Lake City.  Another driver from Salt Lake City will drive to Wamsutter and meet you.  You will swap trailers with one another and you turn around and go back to Denver, you break down your set and drop your trailers and dolly in their appropriate areas, park your truck and you go home for the night.  

This style of trucking fits my lifestyle.  I like to be home every night, I like to have a couple days off for my weekends (usually Sunday and Monday), allows me to have a set schedule and I can usually take care of all my personal life needs without having to take a day off work.  

One important thing that my trainer told me when I was in training was that when I find my niche, stick with it.  Don't get cute and go try every single different style of trucking because not all of them will be for you.  He wasn't saying not to try different styles at all, he was just saying when you find what works for you, stick with it.  I didn't care much for dryvan or OTR and I certainly didn't like flatbed, but pulling doubles (and eventually triples at some point) is rewarding, challenging and a lot of fun and I found that it's my niche and I'm sticking with it.  

So most of you contemplating getting into trucking will have a general idea of what you want to do with your trucking careers, the rest of you have no idea about trucking but you want to get into it and don't know where to start.  It is my hopes that blog will give you more FACTUAL information with which to make those decisions with.

There's a lot of hearsay, rumors and bad information out there and figuring out what is true and what isn't can be daunting, difficult and a very misleading tasks.  There's also plenty of bitter, angry drivers out there whose careers didn't turn out like they had hoped or planned, so keep that in mind.  

Trucking is what YOU make of it. You're the driver, the one behind the wheel, the one in control. How you steer your ship, determines how your career goes.  The rest is easy.